All about Exfoliants! - The Ins the Outs & the Others - Skin Wellness Product Series - Part 6
To Exfoliate???
OR
Not to Exfoliate???
That is the question.
Yay? 👍 or Nay? 👎
I hope this series of Product information emails has been helpful for you. There are only 3 posts left in this series, so if you missed any of them search on the main BLOG page for the following:
Part 1 - I’m too tired. – Questions and concerns about skincare products.
Part 2 - How to get rid of overwhelm and the vicious buying cycle.
Part 3 - Let’s talk about Cleansers!
Part 4 - Let’s talk Toners!
Part 5 - All about Serums & Moisturizers/Balms
Today is all about exfoliants. I get a lot of questions surrounding exfoliation, so hopefully by the end of this article, you will have some more insight as to how to make the best choices for your skin and exfoliants💗
The next post will be a bit lighter on the nerdy stuff (I tend to geek out on this stuff as you can tell;) but rich in the "extras" that can be helpful for your beautiful skincare routines!!! So stay tuned!
The last post was all about serums, moisturizers and balms. Though I mentioned the skin's barrier in a couple of the emails, we will be diving deeper and also touching on EXFOLIATION.
To exfoliate? Yay? OR. Nay? That is the question!
Well, let's chat about it. And you'll need to read the whole thing to get all the answers;)
Let’s begin with BARRIER FUNCTION:
Human skin serves as a barrier between your body & the outside world. The barrier function is HOW the surface of your skin works to complete its physiological job.
When the skin’s protective barrier, the acid mantle and the microbiome are healthy, they help our body to be protected from an invasion of a wide range of pathogenic and harmful organisms.
When they are out of balance, it opens the door to inflammatory skin disorders including psoriasis, eczema, acne, premature aging, and even redness, dryness, itching, burning, stinging skin that feels uncomfortable and becomes unpredictably reactive to a wide array of products. This is because when your skin barrier is not intact, it is no longer preventing allergens and irritants from entering the skin. This matrix also functions to prevent excess water loss from your skin.
You want this barrier to function well! This IS KEY for healthy skin.
As a traditionally trained esthetician, I was taught and practiced for YEARS that exfoliation was necessary for healthy skin. I did all the things; peels, microderms, etc.
And you know what???
My skin was NEVER healthy! And though my clients' skin would look amazing after a facial, they would come back next month and be right back where they were, or with a little bit of improvement.
For me personally, I was congested, acne-prone, and crazy sensitive. Like I reacted to ALL the things!
Why? Because I was disrupting this protective barrier with all of the treatments and products I was using to try to remedy what another product or treatment was causing.
Vicious fu**ing cycle!!!
And what’s really sad to me is this is largely what I see happening with most women out there. It’s because the beauty industry gives false hope of results by continuing this vicious buying & treatment cycle.
Why not just be nice to your skin?
Feed it with nourishing and supportive ingredients? Stop disrupting that protective barrier with loads of disrupting ingredients!!! And start by thinking about what’s happening internally and create some movement under the skin?
Like one of my friends and teachers, Angela Peck, always says, “No Flow, No Glow!” What that means is creating that fountain of youth from within, by getting that lymphatic system moving and ramping up that circulation so that your skin is getting a better delivery of nutrients to it.
You see, our skin cells are developed WAY before they hit the surface of our skin. SO, that means our topical skin is only as healthy as it was when that cell was created. Furthermore, our skin is the last organ to reap the benefits of the nutrients we are consuming. So, not only is eating healthily and staying hydrated important, but we MUST create that flow under our skin so that these fluids can nourish our skin from within. Otherwise, we will not get that vibrant glow we seek.
Over the years, I have adopted a very minimalist approach to skin health. And I created my 4 Pillar approach:
Movement is key. Face and neck massage, facial Gua Sha, Facial Reflexology, Facial exercises... this is where you will see noticeable CHANGES to your skin. Just like working out, the changes are cumulative and sustainable!
Mindfulness and Mindset. You can’t be without this if you wish for radiant and youthful skin.
Product Reset. Learn the NO NOs and the best possible options for healthy, vibrant skin.
Feed your body, feed your skin. The MUST-HAVE ingredients both INTERNALLY and EXTERNALLY for that badass glow from within.
To dive deeper into these pillars, download your FREE guide to 4 Pillars of NH’s Holistic Skincare for Clear Youthful Skin. I know you don’t like to waste time on things that don’t give you results. SO…if you’ve struggled with bad information, the vicious buying cycle, or overwhelmed about what to do, this IS the blueprint of what is needed for healthy, vibrant, and youthful skin! So, download this NOW so that you can start implementing it immediately, so that you will have the knowledge of what is needed to begin your clear and youthful skin journey.
Trust me when I say that this concept was new to me also. In school we were never taught skincare along these principals. Of course, a lot of things have evolved now, but in most cases, much of skincare these days is still about destroying the outer layer of the skin to stimulate collagen production, in order to create new “perfect skin”. So, aside from adhering to my 4 Pillars mentioned above, I have also been using a Corneotherapy approach to the products I created and skin health.
What IS Corneotherapy?
To be honest, to really explain what it is, well, that is a long post for another day! That said, here are the basics and the 3 R's of Corneotherapy abides by:
Repair – Repair the skin barrier defense systems
Replenish - Replenish the intracellular and extracellular environments
Regenerate - Regenerate the connective tissue
In regards to products, these skincare products work to correct existing skin problems, while also acting as preventative skin care, free from harsh and harmful substances, which cause allergies, inflammation and irritation.
The NH products that I have created support the skin's barrier system and are free from emulsifiers, fragrance, colors, mineral oils, silicones, etc. Basically, they are free from ANY skin barrier and microbiome disruptors.
Having a disruption in the protective barrier and microbiome is often created by over-exfoliation, amongst other things. Signs of this could be chronic dryness, dullness, redness, inflammation, itchiness, rashes, bumps, flakiness, breakouts, and slow healing of wounds. Your “sensitive skin” may actually be symptoms of barrier damage.
The great news is that our bodies are so resilient when we allow them to be!
Feeding your skin what it wants (emulsification and hydration!) and protecting your skin from the sun can go a long way in repairing your barrier function.
Think of it as working WITH your skin instead of AGAINST IT.
If you think you have a compromised barrier function (or want to keep it healthy): Keep it simple. Use oil-based cleansers like NH’s Oil Cleansers.
Ditch harsh acids, alcohols, witch hazel, and cleansing brushes, etc. and Opt for a gentle enzyme exfoliation no more than once a week (if even that) with something like NH’s Hibiscus Honey Enzyme Mask.
More on this and exfoliation below 😘
Hydrate your skin with water-based products such as gentle toner, rosewater, fresh tea or a toner like NH’s Facial Mists.
Seal - in that hydration with high-quality beauty oils & butters (don’t be afraid, your skin loves them. It's made of oils!). Try these NH’s Oils Serums and Calm Balm.
So to answer the question.. Should you exfoliate? Yay? OR. Nay?
The answer is maybe, LOL 🤣 Does that help? hahaha
Ok, Ok, let's get into it.
Does your skin feel sluggish? Dull? Lackluster? Or maybe you have a texture thing or hyperpigmentation thing happening?
Are any of these the reason you feel the need to exfoliate?
Or is it simply because that's what has been burned into your brain by the beauty industry or another esthetician. Well, I am here to say, exfoliation can be a great benefit for nourishing the skin, WHEN it is done in a gentle manner and WHEN it is only done on occasion, not consistently!
If you answered YES to any of the questions above, then most likely the culprit is a sluggish lymph and lack of blood flow!!! Seriously! My number 1 Pillar is MOVEMENT!
Here's why...
Let's talk constipation.
Wait... What??? Are we still talking about skin? Yes, indeed we are.
Without getting too into it, again, another post for another day;) Here's a great explanation in layman's terms, by Angela Peck.
Constipation, noun
con·sti·pa·tion \ ˌkän-stə-ˈpā-shən
"The exit of cellular waste, excess fluid, and other debris, from our face and neck to our heart is really quite similar to a bowel movement.
Not to mention, there’s nothing like that feeling when things are finally moving again.
Too much?
Jaw and neck tension typically is what will ‘constipate’ our face (though there are a number of internal imbalances that can cause this as well), causing cellular waste to accumulate and prevent flow (no flow, no glow).
When our face is ‘constipated’, our skin isn’t as glowy; there’s puffiness, even minute amounts will reduce our contours; there’s acne, milia, blackheads; reactive skin; age spots; wrinkles; pretty much any skin condition you can think of can be caused by skin constipation.
Not to mention the unpleasant feeling of stagnation that can affect us mentally, emotionally, and physically throughout our entire body. "
So there ya have it.
OK, back to exfoliation.
It may seem through this email that I am an exfoliant hater. This is simply not true. I do love them for the clarifying and brightening effect. However... I do recommend proceeding with caution and using them in a sparingly and gentle way. And being very aware of when you use them, especially in the summer. If exfoliation is done on a too-regular basis, not only does it disrupt it's protective nature, but can actually cause permanent damage, hyperpigmentation, and lead to advanced aging.
But wait, isn't that what we are trying to correct in many cases?
Or hyperpigmentation?
Or Acne?
Probably, and dullness and lackluster aside, all of the above mentioned the answer IS NOT exfoliation. There are much better, holistic ways of working with these conditions.
That's why I do where I come in🥰
Questions about how and what? You can book a COMLIMENTARY HOLISTIC SKIN WELLNESS CONSULT here. I am happy to help guide you in the right direction for your needs.
So if you are ready to get your exfoliation on in a mindful way. This gentle exfoliant will feed your skin at the same time with minerals, Vit.C and other antioxidants while helping to brighten and hydrate all at the same time... I have also been told it’s great for blemishes!
Look no further than NH's Hibiscus Honey Enzyme Mask!
2 oz Good for most skin types with exception of sensitized skins.
“Before using this mask, my skin felt dull, hormonal, irritated. After using this mask my skin felt refreshed, smooth, and more glow-y. I notice that if I’m coming down with a minor breakout and use this mask it clears up right away.
Love this product! It works great and I love that I can feel good about the ingredients.”
- Rachael
Though it is a very gentle exfoliation and is great for most skin types, it may not be suitable for very sensitive skins and is NOT suitable for sensitized skin or open wounds, rashes, etc.
BENEFITS
▴ Revitalizing, gentle, brightening exfoliator
▴ Hydrating and firms the skin
▴ Antioxidant-rich for an overall healthy glow
STAR INGREDIENTS
. Sugar - A natural humectant, which means it draws moisture from the environment and locks it into the skin. It is a natural source of glycolic acid, that stimulates cell regeneration and encourages new skin cells and thus younger-looking skin.
. Lemon juice - An antioxidant, astringent, stimulant, hydrator. It provides a dose of the free radical-fighting antioxidant vitamin C, which helps keep skin even-toned and helps boost the skin's immunity.
. Aloe Vera Gel - Aids in healing, soothes and protects. It contains antioxidants, enzymes, Vitamins A and C, and it is highly anti-inflammatory.
. Hibiscus – Basically helps with pro-aging. It prevents elastin breakdown. Decreases degradation of collagen. Is a natural source of alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and it consists of a good amount of citric acid and malic acid which are known for brightening and exfoliating effects. Boosts fibronectin protein production in the skin, which speeds up wound healing. Reduces inflammation through numerous antioxidants. And hydrates the skin because the petals of hibiscus are infused with the goodness of mucilage. This makes it an impressive hydrator for your skin.
. Raw Sage Honey – Local California Honey has gentle enzymatic action that helps with healthy cell turnover. It contains many amino acids, vitamins, minerals and enzymes. Honey has more naturally-occurring antioxidants than almost any other botanically/naturally derived source. It has been found to have antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties as well as being a potent humectant, meaning it retains moisture in the skin.
HOW TO USE
Cleanse and tone skin. Either steam face over a pot of water or herbal infusion, apply a warm compress for 5 minutes, then use clean fingers or silicone brush to apply 2- 4 pumps to the face and neck, avoiding the eye area, and hairline. After 10 minutes. remove thoroughly with a cool - tepid wet cloth. Dry gently with a soft towel. Tone and moisturize.
ANGIE'S PRO TIP
Use the stickiness of this mask to your advantage! Stimulate the lymph in your face and neck with this mask. I like to do a thorough cleanse, then a nice round of hydration with a Mist. I also like to take my shirt off and put my hair up, so that I can get my neck and décolleté too;) I apply the mask using my fingers, or you can also use a silicone brush. I find that a regular mask brush is not well suited for this mask, but you can give it a try and see if it works for you. Let the mask sit for a minute so it can get nice and sticky on the skin. Then you can stimulate the lymph in 1 of 2 ways with this mask.
NOTE: To stimulate the lymph you want to work lightly, not using much pressure, if any, aside from the weight of your tool of choice. Knowing the direction of lymph flow is also key! I can help with that if you are unsure;)
1. WITH ROLLER (any stone variety will do;), start above your clavicle (that soft little triangle area at the base of the neck). Take the roller and do a few short downward movements, then move up a little at a time, always going back to the first spot. Eventually, you will have longer strokes and will have worked up to the jaw. To do the face, start at the middle of your chin and move out to the ear. Now work your way up your face in sections, always starting in the middle and working out toward your ear. After the last rolls on the forehead do a few final strokes all the way from the middle of the forehead down to the beginning spot at the clavicle. This will help everything drain to where it needs to drain to. Now repeat, on the other side. If you happen to have 2 rollers, this may be done simultaneously on both sides.
No roller? No problem. Purchase the Jade Qi Spiked Roller here. (It's my favorite!!!)
2. WITHOUT ROLLER - To use your fingers, use a light tapping motion - in the following directions. Using both hands simultaneously, begin tapping right above your clavicle (that soft little triangle area at the base of the neck). Tap gently and swiftly, working your way up the neck slowly -now tap back down the neck and repeat. Once you get back up again to the jaw again, move to the middle of your chin. To do the face, start at the middle of your chin and move out to the ear. Now work your way up your face in sections, always starting in the middle and working out toward your ear. After the last taps on the forehead, do a few final taps all the way from the middle of the forehead down to the beginning spot at the clavicle.
Either of these methods will help lift the skin gently to stimulate lymphatic flow and allow it drain back to where it needs to go.
Continue these movements for at least 3 rounds or you may continue for the rest of the 10 minutes while the mask is on.
Then gently remove the Enzyme Mask with a cool - tepid soft clean facial towel. This is what I use Marley's Monster's Bamboo Facial Cloth. Then follow with a Mist, Serum and, if necessary, a Balm.
To sum it all up.
Be gentle, be mindful and allow your skin time to heal. It is a slow process, not a quick fix. But with the RIGHT tools and product, it CAN BE DONE and it will be sustainable.
Less is more here...really!!!
All of the products at Nourished Holistic are gentle and supportive of the barrier function.
What’s your big AHA moment from today’s post?
Comment below and let me know!
Questions or comments about this post?
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